Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Fodendoscopio, Pedaling the South Island of New Zealand

I'm leaving my house in about two hours to head to the airport. Some many, many hours later, I will reappear out of the wormhole in Christchurch, New Zealand. Christchurch! New Zealand! I know, I'm as surprised as you are.

One of the main events on this trip, which, as always will be comprised of bundles of smaller events, moments, rash decisions and fleeting thoughts is the renting of a bicycle and riding it around.

I have a brain-eye disconnect that makes it hard for me to follow words on a page and translate them to a map on another page. Advanced Geometry was hell my friends, hell, I tell you. So I did what any brain-addled netsavvy person would do, and I found a nifty service that maps your route for you, drawing and tracing minimized. My approximate route for the first 23ish days of this trip look like this:

fonendoscopio Map generated by me at www.bikemap.net, and enchulado (gussied up) on iphoto.

Now, before I spoil it for you. What do you think this looks like?

Got it?

Ready?

Well, to me, as soon as I saw it plotted out, I saw it as a stethescope (fodendoscopio in Spanish), where Christchurch goes in one ear and Greymouth goes in other other, and we all listen to the earth's heartbeat in Milford Sound.

Some of this will be by bike, the trajectory across the grey matter (not pictured) will be by train, and I'm certain buses, trucks, or cars will play a role. With any luck there might be a boat. I have no idea if I'll follow the exact route or maybe meander a little more this way or that.

I've got a pile of stuff laying next to my backpack, waiting to hop in, and the remainder of food willing themselves into lunch as we speak. I've got tickets, lists, a guidebook (I opted for the Rough Guide, over Lonely Planet, possibly because it was more recent), batteries both camera and body and soul charged, a silly good luck charm that I believe in beyond reason, and a world of wind, rain and hard days ahead.

I am so privileged. And so amped.

Feel free to come along on this stethescope of a journey, where I measure the world's heartbeat one pedal stroke at a time and grind up and coast down ridge after punishing ridge of mountains wishing for all the world that I could change the lens on my own vision to wide angle.

Hope you enjoy the ride.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Things that don't make sense, or my trip to SII (Chilean IRS)

So among the things I do around here while I'm not busy communicating with people I don't yet know, but someday might is some editing and translation, and some teaching. I do these freelance, which means I have to use something called a boleta to bill them. It's a nifty little system, now that I have boletas electrónicas, or as I like to call them "online boletas." You tell the person who owes you money and the government how much it is at the same time, and it's all online. Everyone wins. I think.

There are two main ways of getting paid here, as an employee and as a contractor. As a contractor, you can either use your own boletas (electrónicas or paper, I suppose), or use a third-party boleta. I have used a third-party boleta before, and that's a whole story for some other time, but right now we're talking about my own boletas. You sign up for these on the SII website, and it's pretty easy, though it was hard to qualify what I do in terms of boletas. I think I ended up as an interpreter translator lender of professional office services, or something like that. I don't do interpretation, but nobody seemed to mind.

When you are paid by boleta, there is 10% that someone retains. Could be you, or could be the person that paid you. If it is the person that paid you, in (apparently) the worldwide tax month of April, you do some mad abracadabra and the money comes back to you, either directly online or as a check, slipped under your door.

If, however, the person that pays you does not retain the money, you are required to do so. I have no problem retaining money, though I do occasionally let some of it slip through my fingers, spending it on diet coke and other vices. What I wanted to know, now that April is just around the corner was, do I need to give this money to the government and then get my refund from them? And if so, how?

I called the helpful people at SII, who informed me that I needed to fill out the dreaded formulario 29. I looked at the formulario 29 and determined that it had more fields for filling out than I had information. Then I looked at the instructions and decided that that was going to give me (more) grey hair. I called a couple of friends, and none of them knew what to do, saying, galla! (girl!) your situation is so strange? Why does this always happen to you!

To which I responded, because the universe knows I like a challenge.

So this morning, fortified by a giant cup of espresso with cold-frothed milk, and with cash and a checkbook and a credit card on hand, just in case I managed to find someone who could explain the whole thing to me, hold my hand through the form filling out and take my money, I would be ready. I also brought my Chilean ID because you can do nothing in Chile without your ID, except go to the doctor, for which you only require your right index finger.

I pedaled over to SII (the one on Santa Rosa, and by the way, did they move, because I'm sure the last time I went that building was on the other side of the street), locked up my bike, wondered at what point in the bureaucracy my blood would start to boil and/or tears would begin to flow. I walked up to the woman behind the information desk and started to explain my situation.

Which goes like this. blablabblablabla.

Fade to audible:

Why do you want to pay? she said.

Um, because I think I have to, I said.

No, boletas don't require you to pay, she said.

Then why is there a system for me to declare and pay online? I said.

Oh, you can pay online, she said.

I tried, I said, but there are so.many.fields on that dreaded formulario. I said.

Oh, I don't have any forms, she said. Maybe someone from this line (pointing) has a form, or you can buy one from the kiosks.

Or I could do it online, I said.

Right, online, she said.

But the fields? I said.

You just need to pop the info into fields 152, 595 and 91. she said.

152, 595 and 91, I said? (note: the convention for reciting a series of number is to recite them in size order, not to recite them in size order and then put the lowest one at the end)

yes, she said. But it's really not a good idea for you to pay because they'll fine you (I'm overdue), and you won't get the fine money back.

They'll fine me if I pay my taxes, I said? So it's better if I don't pay them?

That's right, she said.

... it was hard to trust her at this point, since she recited those numbers out of order, but she seemed pretty sure of what she was saying.

I don't want to end up in Dicom, I said.

... Ending up in Dicom is having a bad credit rating, the kind of thing that prevents you from doing pretty much anything in Chile. It's like being blacklisted.

You won't end up in Dicom, she said.

What about the other money, that the people who paid me retained? I asked.

That part you get back in April, she said.

So I don't pay this part? I said.

You could, but it's not a good idea, because of the penalties. Though if you do it online it's less because you get a credit for doing it online. She said.

So I don't pay, and I don't go in Dicom, I said?

Right, she said. Anything else?

No, I said.

... And then I stood there, blinking, wondering what had happened, and started to walk home, except that then I noticed I had my bike helmet strapped to my bag and lo! there was my bike outside, so I pedalled home instead. Which, in addition to avoiding brain injury, is why you should always wear a helmet.

I'm still confused. And now so are you.

See? Generous.

Tune in tomorrow for OMG, I'm going to New Zealand, and it rains there all the time like the rain of the rainy place, what was I thinking?

Friday, February 5, 2010

Missing the second half of Chilean summer, pre trip to NZ

Santiago in the summer is sheer joy. It is spacious streets and five minutes in and out at the bank, and tables available at cafés and warm weather (sometimes too hot), and arts and theater.

So I'm a little bit sad to be leaving Santiaguino summer in a few days for New Zealand's version, which I've been preparing for by standing in my clothes in the shower. I cheat, in that I use warm water, and really, this is just to see how resistant the old Gore-Tex is (does someone want to sponsor me with a truly waterproof garment? I would be ever so pleased and grateful).

As a sendoff today, I went to the supermarket for the last compras (purchases) before the trip, toting my blue avocado bag (I have the pod, in green, and it's the perfect reusable bag with comfy straps) I got from my friend Stephanie's (in the news today, whoo!) mother at Christmas, and loving it very much. I think it will make the trip over to NZ, so as not to run afoul of the rabid environmentalism I hope to run across there.

At the supermarket I was treated to this fruit, the likes of which I've never seen before, which they were calling "lemon plum." I've eaten two already, and they have more lemon shape than taste, though they are a little sour (though not acidic).

lemon plums (?!)

Which got me to thinking of all the fruits and vegetables we like to call by other fruit and vegetable names.

Got that?

In Spanish there's

guineo fresa (strawberry banana, this in Ecuador for one of the gazillion varieties of bananas they have there)
ciruela limón (lemon plum)
durazno platano (lit: banana peach, this one is a nectarine)

got any more?

In English I can only think of grape, cherry, pear and plum tomato.

Which then reminded me of the dreaded tomate de arbol or tree tomato, which they apparently have in New Zealand.

And so I add that to my goals.

1. Explore bearshapedsphere
2. Pedal furiously (but not angrily)
3. Snap many photos
4. Encounter rabid environmentalism
5. Avoid dreaded tree tomato

If you're in Santiago and want to try the juice of this dread fruit (despite my warnings) check out the place I talk about here)

If you have anything else to list, please feel free. And also, the captcha? sorry, but it was necessary. I just can't keep up with the Japanese spam and people starting every day with the words "good morning sunshines."

Enjoy your day mightily and with vigor!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Pre-trip winged insect whatnot, New Zealand on the brain

My coffee table is a jumble of desorden (disorderliness), cables and goretex and the occasional piece of paper with the word "cubrebotines" (shoe-covers, a biking thing) scribbled upon it. It is packing central, and it is the perfect metaphor for my brain, a giant jumble of some things I need, some things I don't need but will bring anyway, and some stuff that I hope I have the good sense to leave home.

A friend just asked me exactly where I was planning on going to this trip to New Zealand and I sent her a map I've been looking at to look at possible cycling routes, terrain and whatnot. And I held down NZ and scanned to the left and saw Australia, and then nothing, and I scanned to the right, and there was nothing at all.

And for the first time, I got butterflies. Big, flappity ones with wings that shushh shut while they pretend to have a giant eye on their back end to discourage predators. There is so. much. ocean.

This may seem strange, because after all, in Santiago I'm a solid ten hours from anyone who remembers me with a gap-toothed smile or during any of the many unfortunate oh! bangs are curly, and get shorter after you cut them! events. But I could, in theory, walk to my family. It might take me three years, but I could get there.

Have you seen New Zealand? If the world's transportation network breaks down, you're not going anywhere. Just walking in giant circles for the rest of time.

This is an irrational thought. And I know this.

These are the first of many butterflies, fluttering languidly and then in panic, like moths against a lampshade. Not because of what might happen on the trip, but because of what might not. I have a set of things I want to sort out, write, dream, believe, inspire. And during the year, I often tell myself that I'm not in that space, that I don't get there because there's too much coffeetable and accoutrements and distractions and the idea that hey! I could put cardomom in these pancakes and that would be different!

And my greatest fear, giant oceans and bike mishaps aside, is to not reach that elusive space of me when I need her. Because really? I'm going to New Zealand, but more than that, I'm going to my bearshapedsphere.

I know, it's a very, Wizard-of-Oz-like moment.

Because I was always here.

T-minus six days.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Bike test kit and retro glasses (with photo!)

I spent last week at a friend's house in Maitencillo, one of the northern most towns on the litoral central. I am finally starting to understand which town is where, a feat better managed by mortals with far better geographical memory than I have. In order for me to understand how one thing is connected to the next, there is only one way for me to do it: by bike.

Which is why (along with testing out the kit) I wasn't too alarmed when the offer of a bike rack turned into bikerack pieces on the ground near C's car, and me returning home only to leave the next morning by bus. I took the bus to Viña del Mar, and from there headed out to the ocean, turning right and pedalling until I reached Maitencillo, some 60ish km away, most of it slightly uphill, but none of it terribly steep. It was a slog though, between the weight of the panniers, my own winter weight (argh! summer now) and the fact that I haven't done any long-distance cycling in a while. But I kept my pulse below my own lactic acid threshold (blablabla to all of you who don't care), which in my case is around 167, and stopped to graze a little on the way, and all was well.

I'm feeling physically more confident about the trip in NZ, though I've just looked at my planned route, and it will require me to ride more than 50 miles every day. This is tomfoolery, but I am nothing if not tomfoolish, so more on that as "plans" develop.

Maitencillo was lovely, waves crashing and barnacle-covered shells washed up on the beach, their occupants breathing in fresh ocean breezes. There were a surprisingly large number of aguas muertas (jellyfish) washed up as well, including one that looked very much like a liver. (insert joke about washing-up medical waste here).

And there were these glasses. These not-retro but actually old glasses that were made probably in the 50s out of old pisco bottles. G explained how they do it, with a string and some fuel and a bucket of cold water, which explains why the rim of the glass was a bit sharp (it had been filed, but it's not like a regular glass).

glasses 2

I loved the blue one so much that I think that if I'd been leaving any way but on a bike and with my panniers, they'd have searched my luggage to make sure I didn't have it with me. Though the way back was mostly slightly downhill (and a full 75 minutes shorter, yay gravity). But I wouldn't have wanted to balance and egg on a spoon or worry about a stolen glass the whole way.

Onword and eastward. My legs hate me already.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

La Pequeña Gigante in Santiago

This little lady's been snarling up traffic downtown since who knows when.

la pequeña gigante2 (from my window)

Today is Saturday, a light-traffic day here in Santiago, and moreso because it's summer. And yet there is a line several blocks long of traffic along Manuel Rodriguez, which serves as the service road for the 5 Sur, or the Panamerican Highway, as you may know it. Traffic is a mess today, as it was yesterday, and I think tomorrow will be the same.

La Pequeña Gigante (pictured above) is a mobile art performance that lumbers down the street and has everyone's knickers in a knot. She's gigantic, and you really don't have to be that close to see her, but everyone and their brother was in Plaza La Constitución last night, watching her sleep. A sleeping puppet! Now that's exciting!

It's really a testament to how much people want to play make believe. People talk about her like she's real. I ran into a friend of mine near here yesterday and asked him what he was doing. "Oh, I came to see the doll," he said. This is a serious person, a guy who trains for 8-hour mountain bike races day in and day out, a new father, a doting husband. And he came to see a puppet. Sleeping.

I asked some other people if they were coming back the next day, and they excitedly told me about how the doll wakes up at 10, and how her uncle (even bigger, some 30 m high) was coming to see her. Because every giant puppet should have an even more giant puppet uncle. Wouldn't you?

She has a jam-packed schedule of walks and naps and visits with her uncle, and the whole area downtown is turned inside out with crowds and excitement and really poor crowd control and people selling pictures of the marionette, or if not, soda, bags of confetti or Chilean flags. I don't think we've gotten a count yet, but the last time she was here, 700,000 people came out to take a slack-jawed peek.

Even a jaded bearshapedsphere has to admit that it's pretty great to see all these people lining up (ha, I mean crowding together) to catch a glimpse of something truly extraordinary, kids in tow and fingers pointing and generally laughing and enjoying the spectacle. But I'd way rather see her from my window. Thank goodness for the "penguin lens." (or as some to call it, the zoomcito).

If you're trying to catch her, here's a summary (in Spanish) of what she's up to today: La Pequeña Gigante. Apparently she'll be taking a siesta a little later in the day. And so should we all.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Planning for the unknown, Cycling in New Zealand (pretrip)

At just two weeks (eep!) from my upcoming departure to New Zealand, I am, as is generally the case before a trip, ticking methodically thorough what needs to be done before wheels up.

Recovered from the coffee/tea/water/diet coke spitting incident at the hilarity of the above statement? Good. Then let's get on to the truth. The truth is, I have identified eight things that need to be done before I go on this trip. And they are the following:

1. Buy a round-trip ticket to New Zealand
2. Buy an internal flight, Auckland to Christchurch
3. Book a hostel in Christchurch
4. Inquire about bike
5. Reserve bike
6. Test out riding kit
7. Read about NZ
8. Plan cycling trip (approximation)

Of these, I have done precisely 3 and two halves. You might think from what you learned in the fourth grade that 3 and two halves is 4. In this case, you would be wrong. I may be a despelotada (scatterbrain) about some things, but I take my halves seriously. And sometimes they're not reducible fractions.

A quick inventory reveals the following.

1. Kinda. I have a ticket from Santiago to Auckland and returning to Buenos Aires. At the time that I booked this, it seemed like a great way to save money. Now that Argentina has instituted a reciprocity fee for me and my people (Americans, not Jews, though I understand there is some crossover), this may or may not actually have saved me money. Also, depending on how I'm feeling after the NZ trip and how I'm fixed for time, that will determine how I get back to Santiago, and how much cash I drop on that cross-continental journey (hint: not by bike!)

2. Yes! Gold star!

3. Nope.

4. Yep! Another Gold star!

5. Um, not yet. Soon. I think.

6. Yes. I'm fairly satisfied that what I have will work, though I want to put the panniers in the shower and make sure they're really as waterproof as they claim to be. I believe a shower should approximate the strongest rain I'm likely to encounter, though I might turn on the warm water a little more than Mother Nature likes to.

7. A little? Not enough.

8. This is not planned. I need to be realistic about how much I can pedal day in and day out, and understand the terrain a little better. There will be some really terrible hills. But really terrible is very subjective. I need to look at the grade of the hills and see how it compares to what I pedal around here. Living smack against the Andes, it's not like I'm a stranger to hills. But they're not what I'd call my strong point. Like eating cereal with milk. I'm really good at that (especially if they're Quaker's Quadritos).

So as you can see, there's some, um, planning that needs to be done. And by some I mean kind of all of it. Oh. that.

Re hills: From what I can see, the first few days out of Christchurch should be pretty flat. You'd think this would be a good thing. In fact, it is not. It is likely to remind me of Sauvie's Island outside of Portland, Oregon, a place that was designed with a level and then stuck in a wind tunnel on 10. It is the most torturously unpleasant ride I have ever ridden, and that includes dogs, rocks, rainstorms, hailstorms, wind gusts, people throwing things, cracks in the road and even crashes.

But my biggest enemy in pedalling is not the physical. The physical can be overcome. You can stop and take a break, take a nap, drink a box of cappucino-flavored milk (bleck, this in Costa Rica, a trip I planned in the airport with the free map from the tourism office). The physical problems go away. Nothing a shower and a rest can't cure. But the mental exhaustion of knowing that you have a long spool of black asphalt before you that must be traversed, while your self-confidence has taken a hike down one of New Zealand's famous tramping tracks? That's hell.

But overcoming all of it? The pain, and the fatigue and the niggling self doubts about whether you could or couldn't? That's like a good bowl of cereal with milk. With a free prize inside.

More details to follow. If you have any words of wisdom or resources or if you're a sports psychologist, please feel free to speak up.